Farewell Meal in Chorlton, Manchester on the night of 6th May with good friends
Rihali
Left on the 6th May and met Rihali on the train from Todmorden to Manchester. She was from Kenya and her mum from Mumbai. She gave me some tips about Mumbai and it made me feel my journey had already started.
My Time in India
I only spent a few days in India as it was out of season and the monsoons were coming. I arrived in Mumbai around 1.00am of the 8th May 2008 - it took some time to locate a taxi but the drive to the hotel was an experience - loads of beggars sleeping rough right on the kerb - hundreds of cats, dogs and rats all fighting for territory and ensuring they are not the next meal for the other species.
Mumbai
Very dirty, noisy, hot, sometime smelly and sweaty place. Found decent restaurant that gave fenugreek after a meal as a mouth freshener - never heard of that before.
Rip off
Thought I would go to Natural History Museum (Prince Charlie sponsored) for a bit of culture. It was advertised as 20 rupee entrance for an Indian and 300 rupee for a foreigner. My individual protest was not to go in. You kind of know that as a tourist we would be ripped off but this is so blatant and left a bad feeling with me. If they had just not advertised the costs and I was told at the door it would be 300 rupee I probably would have paid it (around 80 rupee to the pound)
Rat
I did not find Mumbai a very attractive place - apologies to all the people who like or come from Mumbai and I’m sure there are some nice parts. One of the things that put me off was treading on a live rat in the middle of the day in a very crowded street. Like treading on a rat in Market Street, Manchester on a Saturday afternoon.
Got a taxi to show me the sights of Mumbai and the best he came up with was an outside massive laundry - see piccy on the left.
Goa
Took an overnight bus to Goa on the 10th May 2008. Journey took 15 hours. I was the only foreigner and was put next to an old Indian Lady who had been travelling on a coach for 3 days and 2 nights with her son and family to get to their destination. She took great delight in falling asleep and tumbling over me and my sharp elbows were the only weapon that prevented her totally crushing me.
Indian Drivers
The drivers in India are complete barmpots. Not only do they use the horn constantly but on all major roads they overtake everywhere - blind bends, brows of hills, narrow roads. They just press the horn and go expecting everybody else to get out of the way. This included the coach driver from Mumbai (it was the same driver for 15 hours - needs a bit of H & S from England I feel) with around 50 passengers abroad - absolute nutter. On the windscreen read “Jesus is the Way,” it may the only way to keep alive on those roads. Arrived in Mapusa around 10.00am of the 11th and realised I had been there before in 1996 - remember buying this fruit that tasted like apple and custard.
Stopped at a nice hotel in Arpora, North Goa. I was the only foreigner staying there but everybody was nice. Met an Indian doctor and his family - very nice people. The doctor worked on aids research in Mumbai and said that 35% of the Indian population had aids. Also, that some witchdoctors or shaman type practitioners have been known to cure aids.
Palolem
Hired a jeep and went to Palolem beach, South Goa. South Goa has prettier countryside than the north and I enjoyed the journey. Indian drivers hated me as I kept to the speed limits and never overtook unless it was very safe. I got honked at more than once but I put on my best I’m not bovvered face, stared ahead and continued. I visited Palolem in 1996 when nothing was there other than beautiful white sandy beaches and about a dozen beach huts. Now its full of stalls, restaurants, hotels, guest houses and hundreds of beach huts but it still looked beautiful.
Anjuna
Again Anjuna beach is busier than 1996 but there is still the same pressure to buy stuff. One of the beach bars had a rock band performing - see piccy - and it was like stepping back into the early 1970’s when musicians took music so seriously and song writers were trying to write music that tried to get messages across. This band had the long hair, beards and loose fitting hippy clothes and 15 minute guitar solos. I sat at a table next to a group of men and women who I guess were in their 50’s, who probably went to Anjuna when Slade and Sweet were kings and have never left. The ladies still dressed in mini skirts, crop tops that they have probably been wearing since the 70’s. The guys with them were no better, ill fitting cropped trousers and t shirts that did nothing to hide their beer bellies. These people seemed to be in a time warp. I had to go to the nearest Internet cafe to make sure that I was still in 2008 and hadn't gone through a time tunnel.
Decision Time
On the 16th May I was wondering what to do. I had in mind going to Kerala but found out that the monsoons had started and my idea was to do some scuba diving off Lakshadweep but that had closed until later in the year. Next was a visit to Jaipur, Rajasthan but bombs had just gone off and the aids doctor advised that it would be best not to go yet. Nepal’s rainy season had started as well. Around the beginning of June, Goa would have their rainy season and it can be solid rain for weeks at a time. So, I decided to make my way to Thailand. My decision was also exacerbated by some English idiots I met in Goa.
English Idiots
I met this guy from Bolton who lived in Calangute, North Goa and he was nothing more than a loudmouthed fat drunk who was extremely rude to everyone when in drink - he shouted and screamed at any beggar who came his way. Beggars for me are begging usually through circumstances and would choose another way of life if they could. The worst idiot though was a Scots guy called Alan who owned a bar with his wife, Moira. The football final between Rangers (his team) and the Russian club they were playing was showing in his bar later that night. The game kicked off at 12.30am and before that they were having karoake. On arrival, I found Alan completely drunk, misty eyed and as unsteady as if he had been spun around 100 times. He was leering, slobbering and lolling over every female in the bar. There were other drunks there as well - not my sort of company. Anyway, the game had started when Alan decided that this hippy couple who were watching the game had offended him in some way and started a fight with the guy. Don’t know what it was all about, but to have the bar owner picking fights - well it’s not a bar I want to be in. When that episode was finished Alan then realised he had lost his mobile and proceeded to accuse anybody and everybody of theft. This culminated in Alan smashing up 2 plastic chairs in alcohol fuelled temper - to smash up plastic chairs takes some doing.
Indian Idiots
Another event that made my decision to leave Goa easier was seeing 2 Indians on a motorcycle stop on a bridge and empty 2 big bags of rubbish into the river.
4 comments:
Wow what an amazing recall of your journey so far Alan. This is a brillinat idea setting up this website we will try and get some of the boys onto it as well to let them know what you are up to. It is so interesting reading your views on the different places you have visited and like you said sometimes the brits can spoil what is a lovely place by their arrogant natures which can spoil it for the rest of the brits who do have a personality and are interested in other people and how they live. Its a shame really. Keep the site updated Alan we will be looking regularly to see what you are up to. Take care and happy ventures Paula James and all at Padiham Saints.
Yo Alan! Congrats on persevering with this blog site and cracking it!!! These things are never 'simple'... Hope you're able to continue to update us fairly regularly with your adventures! As you know, we (Bob & Pam) went to Candolin in January (1st time in Goa) and can really REALLY identify with your observations of the expat community over there! As you say - a real timewarp and, for the most part, a total embarrassment to good 'ol Blighty... They're not all like that, but there are far too many of them who totally wreck... We're not night folks, so didn't really see any fights or ugly obnoxious drunks, but if we'd stayed out 5 minutes longer before returning to our hotel, we WOULD have!!! Those idjits are there 'cause of the weather, cheap booze, and the hospitality of the people (who somewhow tolerate this dispicable behaviour!) I'm surprised the Indians haven't thrown them out! The squalor??? Yech! On the upside, we liked the people, the variety and many choices of places to eat (and the food!) and, of course, the weather! I'm sure Pam will be responding shortly!!! Waiting anxiously for your next missive!
Bob
Hi Alan,
How wonderful to be having a great time and doing good things while you're at it!
I loved reading your blog (I'm told I should start one, but I can't bring myself to go through it all just now).
I think you said you'd be away for a year, or longer? Where to after Thailand?
Speaking of Mumbai, I met this woman from Vermont who goes there and photographs the feral dogs; she's working on a book about them, and I have one of her wonderful photos.
Anyway, I'll look forward to hearing more about your adventures.
I am tickled by the shrink wrapped shoe. Maybe someone at the shop got a shrink wrap machine, and is so taken with the process that he just does everything. Then again, shoes can get moldy in such weather. Do you think he shrink wraps his own shoes when he takes them off each night?
Have fun!
Hi Alan, have now had time to read your wondeful blog. Congrats on going forward in the way you planned - finding a football team to train already! Hope you can make something of them. At least you will have the satisfaction of knowing that they all are extremely enthusiastic and will work hard for you despite the set-backs. I really hope you enjoy the experience thoroughly. Sounds as though you are doing well on the cheap accommodation front - typical Alan - I will enlist your aid when planning a trip myself!! In fact, wish I was with you now as you are having such a "real" experience and it sounds great. Sorry you didn't enjoy India too much this time as there really is much of great delight to see - maybe get the season right and try again on your return journey? November to February are best times for most of the sub continent.
Keep the blog coming and stay well - and have the time of your life.
Love Pamxx
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